Discovering the Lucanian Parks Ring by Bike with Sergio Borroni
Wedged between the Tyrrhenian and Ionian Seas, Basilicata is a region often overlooked—and perhaps for that very reason, it’s full of surprises. Mountainous, quiet, and solitary, this southern Italian land preserves hilltop villages, landscapes straight out of a Carlo Levi story, and some of the most extensive and untouched national parks in Italy. A hidden gem, especially for those who love to travel slowly.
Among its natural treasures is a standout cycling itinerary: the Lucanian Parks Ring (L’Anello dei Parchi Lucani), a demanding yet rewarding 750-kilometer loop with 14,000 meters of elevation gain. It crosses four protected parks and visits some of the region’s most iconic locations. And this very route is the star of Sergio Borroni’s latest bike adventure.
Sergio Borroni’s Lucanian Tarantella
Sergio Borroni, known for his distinctive blend of humor, grit, and poetic storytelling, set off on this cycling journey with the Cillufo brothers, Antonio and Salvatore. Starting from Sapri, where the train dropped them off, their ride took them along dramatic coastlines, through rugged parks, ghost towns, lonely plateaus, and ancient cities.
The tone is lighthearted, but the effort is real: steep climbs, mechanical failures, failing brakes, and rain-soaked rides. Balanced, however, by genuine encounters, enchanting landscapes, local specialties, and extraordinary human warmth.
Sergio’s Story of the Lucanian Parks Ring
“It all started by chance, wandering through the stands at the Cycle Tourism Fair. I stumbled upon a fascinating little guidebook by Palmarosa Fuccella: L’Anello dei Parchi Lucani. That small but rich book—with its passionate descriptions, historical references, and practical tips—convinced me to go. I wanted to see with my own eyes that authentic and somewhat hidden Basilicata that, I admit with some shame, I knew very little about.”
The route winds through the solitary peaks of the Pollino, the clay-rich calanchi hills, dense beech forests, and villages clinging to cliffs. Basilicata hasn’t yet been flattened by mass tourism. You still find early-morning cafés for local workers, elderly men watching curiously as you pack your panniers, and simple restaurants with honest food. Simplicity still feels natural here.
Together with my cycling companions, Salvatore and Antonio Cilluffo, regulars on past tours, we completed the loop following Fuccella’s route faithfully.
The route connects key natural parks in Basilicata: the Pollino National Park—the largest protected area in Italy—the Gallipoli Cognato and Lucanian Dolomites Regional Park, the Murgia Materana Park, the Vulture Park, and the Lucanian Apennines Val d’Agri Park.
The scenery constantly shifts. Along the way, you pass through villages that feel suspended in time: Pomarico, Pietrapertosa, Colobraro… places where simply sitting at a café and chatting with locals can become the highlight of your day. Each village has its own story, its own light at sunset, its own kind of silence. And of course, there’s Matera, wisely included in the itinerary—deserving an article of its own as the only truly tourist-oriented city on the route. And rightly so.
The Video
Route and Main Stages of the Lucanian Parks Ring
Here’s a breakdown of the main stops on Sergio’s route:
- Sapri – Maratea
Scenic coastal road to the Christ the Redeemer statue. - Lucanian Apennines National Park
Lake Sirino and a rail-trail along the former Calabro-Lucana railway, with bridges and tunnels. - Pollino National Park
Stops in Lauria and Viggianello, with their never-ending climbs. - Monte Volturino – Acquatremola (1445 m)
One of the route’s toughest peaks, through forests and glacial springs. - Colobraro – Montalbano Ionico – Craco
Legendary villages and the lunar landscapes of the Lucanian badlands. - Matera
The former “shame of Italy,” now a UNESCO World Heritage Site—an emotional and essential stop. - Grassano – Lucanian Dolomites – Accettura – Stigliano
Challenging climbs and the enchanted forests described by Carlo Levi. - Venosa – Melfi
Exploring historic Lucania through Roman ruins, unfinished churches, and Norman castles. - Potenza – Sarconi – return to Sapri
Final climbs and a long descent among gorse and silence, back to the sea.
Tips and Advice for Cyclists
If you’re considering taking on the loop, Sergio Borroni highlights that logistics are straightforward: you’ll find simple, welcoming accommodations, often family-run and quite affordable.
- Bike: Choose appropriate gearing (you’ll need it), pack light, and be flexible.
- Weather in Basilicata can change quickly, especially in spring and fall—the best times to go. Water is plentiful, as are small eateries and local shops.
- Fitness level: 750 km and 14,000 meters of elevation gain require solid physical preparation.
- Best time to go: May is ideal. Avoid the summer heat and dryness.
- Food: Try everything. Cured meats, cheeses, local sodas, and traditional dishes—each stop is a culinary adventure.
- Train access: You can start and finish the loop using train routes to Sapri or Potenza.
This journey is perfect if you want to:
- Discover a lesser-known Italy: full of small towns, friendly people, and deliciously simple food.
- Take your time: this isn’t a race—it’s a voyage.
- Experience raw nature: these parks remain wild and unfiltered, not tourist playgrounds.
A Journey Out of Time
Sergio Borroni’s story is more than just a cycling adventure. It’s an immersion in the history, geography, and soul of a modest and generous land. The Lucanian Parks Ring is more than a bike route: it’s a life experience blending nature and culture, sweat and reflection, unpredictability and wonder.
And when, after hundreds of kilometers, the Gulf of Sapri comes back into view through the clouds, it truly feels like you’ve danced a long Lucanian tarantella—tiring, mesmerizing, unforgettable.
